Horsehair Braid Hem

Horsehair braid is loosely woven from transparent strands of nylon thread. Sewn into the hemlines of dressy garments, such as wedding gowns, the braid slightly stiffens the lower edge, softly maintaining the shape of the garment. Unlike the metal boning used in hoop skirts, horsehair braid remains flexible; and less noticeable. Three methods of application are given. 1/2" & 5/8" horsehair braid is suitable for most current fashions and is available either by the yard or in packages. Steam-press before applying to remove any folds or creases. Take care not to stretch the braid in handling.

Method 1

Mark the hemline at the bottom of the skirt. Trim the hem allowance below the marked hemline to 1/4".
On the garments right side, align the top edge of the braid with the marked hemline. Start at the back or side seam; fold under the starting end.
Edgestitch braid all the way around the garment hem. Fold under the finishing end of the braid to abut the starting end.
Fold hem and braid to wrong side along hemline marking. Edgestitch along folded edge through all thicknesses. Note: Stitching from the top side may alleviate puckering.
Secure the free edge of the Horsehair braid to the garment by tacking it to the seams only.
Whipstitch the abutted braid ends together. Remove any bastings. Press entire hem carefully.

Method 2

This method is suitable for heavier fabrics, or where a more defined look is desired (but not as defined as the metal hooping gives). It is also used for the lining or petticoat hem.

Allow a hem of three times the width of the braid plus 1/4" - 1/2" ease. (The amount of ease is determined by weight or bulk of fabric.) Trim any excess.
When possible, use a wider 1" braid or create a wider braid by lapping two lengths of braid to measure 1 1/2" wide. Stitch down the center of the overlap.
Lay the braid on the wrong side, one edge even with the bottom of the hemline. Stitch a scant 1/4" from this edge.
Turn up hem along the braid and baste close to the fold at bottom.
Turn again, and baste close to the fold at bottom.
Stitch along upper basting line. Note: stitching from the RIGHT side may alleviate puckering.

Method 3

Mark the hemline at the bottom of the skirt. Trim the hem allowance below the marked hemline to 1/4".
On the RIGHT side of the garment align the bottom edge of the braid with the hemline, Start at the back or side seam. Fold under the starting end.
Edgestitch braid all the way around the garment hem. Fold under the finishing end of the braid to abut the starting end.
Roll hem and braid to wrong side along the hemline marking. Edgestitch along folded edge through all thicknesses.
Note: Stitching from the top side may alleviate puckering.
Secure the free edge of the horsehair braid to the garment by tacking it to the seams only. Whipstitch abutted ends together. Press carefully.

To download a printable version of this handout,
please click here for Method 1 and here for Method 2 & 3.

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