Western Wedding Dress

Give Yourself Enough Time - While not difficult, most pattern adaptations take some time. Be sure to allow time to make a muslin for fitting and testing techniques, and time for adding the final touches that will make your western wedding dress truly unique.

Make a Test Garment - Of all the things you can do, this is the most important. Make a muslin or test garment. You may even make several until you get your adaptations just right. Test everything: the changes made to the pattern, how the garment fits, which technique will give the best results.

As a rule, make your "muslin" from fabric similar to that chosen for the final garment. Cotton broadcloth may not give the same fit as satin.

Fabric choices greatly affect the look created with a pattern. Consider choosing Crepe Back Satin and using the matte crepe side out on the yolks and the shimmer side out for the body of the western wedding style shirt. Bias binding of the satin would be nice as would a beaded edging. Outline the yolk with tradition white rayon fringe, a beaded fringe or even a double row of fringe.

Choosing an all over embroidered eyelet or damask will give a somewhat more casual look for your western wedding dress. For a formal look choose a Peau de Soie such as Satin D'Hauteur or an elegant Silk Dupioni, Velvet makes a dramatic winter ensemble while Ultrasuede would be a classic choice especially since it can be fringed like leather while being easier to work with.

Rather than tuck this shirt into a matching skirt or western style pants, modify the hemline. Shorten the back to the waistline then gently curve from the waistline at the sides down in front. Depending on the brides torso length, 3"-4" should be adequate. The front curve gives a very feminine traditional way to create a two piece wedding dress.

This pattern can be adapted by adding length to the front and back, and more fullness in the peplum. The tops can be underlined in satin (along with the skirt), the neckline bound in bias satin, and fancy buttons look wonderful.

To enhance the overall effect, add boots, a hat or headpiece along with a veil, petticoat or pantaloons.

Tips for adapting this pattern:

• Swing the waist curve on the blouse front out 1.5" further at the lower edge.
• Add 3" at the lower edge and 2.5" at side of blouse back, taper to waist and flare out with the added 3" length.
• At the side seam, add 2.5" to bottom width, tapering back to waist curve. Add 3" at lower edge, blending up to the side seam. Do not cut any lower until the pattern is all pinned together and the curves are blended. Keep in mind that the waistlines may need customizing, as this pattern originally had ease at the waist. Disregard elastic instructions.

A simple elegant change for this western wedding jacket would be to curve up the front, softening the angles created by the points. You might even widen the curve so that it goes from front dart to front dart.

Consider creating it with sheer lace yolks. Merely cut the yolks from a sheer such as organza, Sparkle Organza , Chiffon, or two layers of tulle, cut and treated as one. Construct the body of the jacket including darts, add the sheer yolks and sleeves. Wait to add lining, facings, and edge finishes. An all over lace will be applied to the outside of the jacket and may cover the sleeve cap as well. This lace is designed to be cut and manipulated to fit. See our DF Sewing Hints for additional information on sewing with lace.

Line the jacket body with a fabric which will slide off easily such as the soft, anti-static Hang Loose lining. Do not line the yolk area, rather turn under the lining seam allowance and hand tack over the joining seam.

Finish the neckline, front and hems with a satin or self fabric bias. Choose special buttons: covered, pearl, or even rhinestone buttons. Wedding dresses rarely have buttonholes due to the delicate nature of the fabrics used. Eliminating the center front overlap and using a loop closure is a nice option.

Sewn from matching fabric, this vest can be worn under the jacket or as a sleeveless top to your western wedding dress.

Redrafting the front with a gentle downward curve and softening the sharp points on the yolk would be pretty.

The pattern is designed with a two piece shaped back, shaped side seams and front darts which give opportunities for fitting. If your fit is very tight and/or your fabric is especially delicate, consider underlining at least the body with a stable fabric such as broadcloth or batiste.

You may choose to make the yolks sheer or with lace as above. If your fabric is especially delicate, consider underling at least the body with a stable fabric such as broadcloth or batiste.

Eliminating the center front overlap and using a loop closure is a nice option. Adding embellishments such a beading, sequins, fringe and edging will add a special quality to your western wedding gown.

This skirt would compliment any of the bodice options.

The five gores offer opportunity for fitting and the fullness in the back will allow ease of movement and dancing! Either mid-calf or ankle length would be flattering.

You may choose to insert a hidden zipper rather than construct the placket as shown in the pattern.

Eight gores allow this flattering skirt to be slim at the top and very full at the bottom.

You will want to cut the garment using a with nap layout for most wedding fabrics. While it may save fabric to nest or alternate the triangular shaped pattern pieces, light will reflect differently from the up pieces than from the down pieces. This effect can be very dramatic and noticeable!

Construct your skirt "muslin" before redrafting your bodice to make sure the hemline changes are compatible.

If riding is a part of your western wedding day plans, this skirt would be an excellent choice. The front panel buttons one way for a skirt and the other way for pants. The pattern is derived from a skirt worn by legendary rancher and rodeo rider, Fannie Sperry Steels.

Choose small, flat, mother of pearl buttons in keeping with your wedding dress fabrics or match the ones chosen for your bodice. Consider that buttons with dimension may catch on harness and other riding accouterments.

A perfect skirt for getting married on horseback! The pattern features a front panel which either buttons to cover the split in the skirt or buttons open to utilize the split for riding.

This panel can be eliminated and replaced with a front pleat to coordinate with an adaptation to your top. Also, this western wedding skirt pattern features a low crotch - while it hangs nicely, it may feel strange. Feel free to customize it.

Tips for adapting this pattern:

• Use only the back skirt pattern piece and cut 2. Eliminate the others along with adding 2" to the length.
• Instead of using the sectioned waistband pattern piece, cut a strip for the waistband - your waist measurement plus two inches in length, and as wide as you wish. This can be interfaced or made with elastic inside.
• Plan for a zipper at the center back. It goes in first, then the pleat folds to the center on each side and is stitched along the zipper, hiding the zipper under the folds.
• If you don't need the reaching room between the skirt and top for mounting a horse, you might consider making it as a dress by cutting the top on a fold at center front, attaching it to the skirt, and using a long zipper in back.
• This is attractive with pantaloons or lace tights and little lace-up granny boot, and lends itself well to a variety of headpieces, veils, and hats for a period look.

For the truly adventurous equestrian completing the western wedding dress with pants rather than a skirt may be the answer.

If a tight fit is desired and a delicate satin or similar fabric is chosen consider underlining the slacks with a firmly woven fabric such as broadcloth.

You may wish to eliminate the welt pockets or hand sew them shut to maintain the sleek look.

While this makes them a little long when standing, hem your wedding slacks long enough to cover your boot top when in the saddle.

Since the turn of the 20th century, this pretty gown has brought on sweet dreams at night. Just as delightful when made as a feminine day dress. Long or short length, with ruffled neckline or wide triangular ruffled collar. #225 Childhood Dreams is a perfect match for a favorite little girl.

This sleek garment freed early 20th century women from traditional undergarments, which were both elaborate and weighty. Classic princess lines give this slip a smooth shape and flattering fit, whether worn underneath other garments or as a lightweight summer dress.

The perfect nightgown or ladies summer dress. Both views have gathered and ruffled cap sleeves and pleats at the neckline, which is adjustable with ribbon drawstrings. Includes misses sizes XS - 3XL.

Dainty, frilly undergarments, sometimes called frillies by our great grandmothers, were made of fine cottons and accentuated with lace and/or embroidery. Recreating these patterns for ladies undergarments, we've included embroidery patterns as an option for the front of the camisole. True to the time period, the camisole, petticoat, and pantaloons give proper form and fit to our line of ladies clothing patterns. Used as corset covers at one time, camisoles make a cool summer top for today's modern gal. This pattern package includes the camisole, petticoat, and pantaloons in sizes from XS to XL and complete instructions. Hint: the petticoat pattern can also be used as a dress pattern depending on your choice of fabric.

This versatile pattern may be just what you need to complete your western wedding dress ensemble. Made from matching wedding dress fabric, the camisole can be worn as a bodice and would look lovely under the jacket. For luxurious "unmentionables" choose satin charmeuse, lightweight linen , or one of many silks.

The petticoat has the option of two ruffle layers which will support a full dress without unnecessary bulk at the hip and waist. The ruffle can be eliminated for mid-calf skirts.

The split skirt can be worn with the "drawers". Just eliminate the ruffle and lengthen.