Roman Shades • How To Make Roman Shades • Roman Window Shade
Roman Shades
Instructions:
Hobbled Roman Shades
Roman Shade Materials
- Decorator fabric — plain or all - over prints work best.
- Lining fabric
- Fusible web, 1/2" wide
- 1/2" plastic rings
- 1/2" polyester twill tape; to determine yardage needed, multiply number of tows by finished shade length.
OPTION: Instead of sewing rings onto the twill tape, click here for pre-made tape. - 1 x 2 mounting board, cut to length as determined on page 16 of the book.
- Screw eyes, one for each row of twill tape and rings.
- Shade cord
- Awning cleat
- Weight bar - 1/4" to 3/8" in diameter, wood or dowel, aluminum rod, or brass rod may be used.
- 1.5" angle irons with flat-head screw, for an outside-mounted shade.
- (8) x 2.5" flat-head screw, for outside-mounted valance (wall studs) or molly bolts or toggle anchors for outside-mounted shade (drywall or plaster).
- (8) x 1.5" round head screws for inside-mounted shade.
- Paper and pencil
Sewing Roman Shades
It is very helpful to make a diagram of the shade on paper, including the hem, the correct number of spaces between rings, and length of fabric in the folds. This diagram will be different for outside-mounted or inside-mounted shades. This will also help you choose the distance you'd like to see between each fold. Please consult pg. 25 of the book.
- Seam fabric widths together, if necessary; trim to cut width determined. Repeat for lining fabric. Stabilize the side edges by applying liquid fray preventer or by finishing the edges with an overlock or zigzag stitch. Press under 1.5" on each side for the hems.
- Place shade fabric facedown on flat surface. Place lining on the shade fabric, wrong sides together, with upper edges matching. Place lining under the side hems, up to fold lines.
- Fuse the side hems over the lining, using �" strips of fusible web.
- Press under an amount equal to the hem depth at lower edge of shade fabric; then press under again to make a double-fold hem. Pin in place.
- Mark a line across top of shade to indicate projection of mounting board . Mark placement for rings in first vertical row, 1" from side of shade, with top mark 8" below marked line for projection and with bottom mark at upper edge of hem. Space marks a distance apart equal to twice the distance between rings as calculated on page 25 of the book; repeat for opposite side.
- Mark placement for rings in the first horizontal row at upper edge of hem, spacing rows as determined in your diagram of shade (pg. 25 of book). Continue marking placement for all remaining rings. Pin the lining to shade fabric at each ring placement mark.
- Tape or pin lengths of twill tape, side by side, to work surface. Mark a line across tapes �" from one end. Mark additional lines across the tapes, spacing marks as calculated for distance between the rings.
- Insert �" ends of tapes under top edge of hem up to first line, centering one tape at each ring placement mark; pin in place. Stitch hem in place, catching tapes in stitching.
- Pin the twill tapes to ring marks, beginning at the bottom of the shade, centering the tapes on the ring marks and pinning through all the layers.
- Option of attaching rings by machine. Set zigzag stitch at the widest setting; set stitch length at 0. Fold shade right sides together along first horizontal row of pins. Place rings next to folded edge. At center of twill tape, stitch over the ring and folded edge with about 8 stitches. Secure the stitches by stitching in place for two or three stitches, with the stitch width the length set at 0. Repeat for remaining horizontal rows.
- Option of attaching rings by hand. Tack rings by hand, using double strand of thread, stitching in place through the tape, lining, and shade fabric for four or five stitches.
- Tack the tapes in place at top of shade, matching the last marks on the tapes to marked lines on the shade; do not stitch rings at the top marks.
- Trim excess tapes even with upper edge of shade, and secure ends to shade. Finish upper edge of the shade, using overlock or zigzag stitch; catch the ends of the tapes in the stitching.
- Cover mounting board (see pg. 16 of book). Align upper edge of shade to back top edge of mounting board. Staple in place, stapling through the tapes and between them. For inside-mounted shade or outside-mounted shade with 1.5" projection (a), shade is stapled to wide side of board. For outside-mounted shade with 3/4" projection (b), shade is stapled to narrow side of board.
- Install screw eyes on underside of mounting board, aligning them to rows of rings. For easy installation of screw eyes, use awl or screwdriver as shown.
- Slide the weight bar into hem at lower edge of shade. Hand stitch ends of hem closed.
- Place the shade facedown on a flat surface. Decide whether the draw cord will hang on left or right of shade. String first row of the shade, opposite the draw side. Run cord through the rings from bottom to top and across the shade through screw eyes; extend cord about 3/4 the way down the draw side of the shade.
- Cut and tie the cord for first row securely at bottom ring. String the remaining rows, running the cord through each succeeding row of rings and through the screw eyes; cut and tie each cord at the bottom ring. Apply fabric glue to the knots to prevent them from fraying or becoming untied.
- Mount the shade to wall or window frame (see pg. 17 of book). Adjust length of the cords with shade lowered so the tension on each cord is equal. Tie the cords together just below screw eye. Braid cords to the desired length; knot.
- Screw awning cleat into window frame or wall. When shade is raised, wrap the cord around awning cleat.