Linen Fabric Care • Linen Fabrics • Sew Linen Fabric
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Linen Guidelines
Sewing Guidelines for Linen
Pre-treating
Pre-treat your linen fabrics in the same manner as you plan to treat the garment after construction.
Washing
Linen fabrics tend to soften and loose some of the crisp texture when washed. To take full advantage of this trait, wash and dry your yardage three times prior to cutting out. To maintain crispness, consider dry cleaning.
Linen fabrics tend to shrink. The amount is dependent on the characteristics of the fabric. Allow at least an eighth of a yard per yard if you plan on washing your project, more if the fabric is loosely woven or has a high level of sizing (the starchy substance that is sometimes used in processing yardage).
Linen fabrics tend to shine or slick when pressed. Use a press cloth when pressing on the right side and consider using a lower temperature. Wrinkles, folds, and pleats pressed into linen fabrics tend to be very difficult to remove. Use care in pressing.
To set pleats in linen fabrics, use a solution of vinegar and water (50/50) to dampen the fold line and then press the pleat in place. Let dry completely before moving. A wooden clapper can be useful in setting the pleat and can expedite the drying/cooling period.
When laundering the completed garment, remove it from the dryer while still slightly damp. Arrange on a hanger, smoothing as much as possible. This will reduce the amount of pressing needed.
Dry Cleaning
Rather than having your linen fabrics dry cleaned prior to cutting, you may choose to steam press with a good steam iron. In the absence of sufficient steam, dampen the fabric in cool water and hang to dry. Do not wring or squeeze. Press before laying out pattern pieces and cutting.
Dry cleaned linen fabrics can and will shrink. As with washing, purchase additional yardage.
Cutting
Most linen fabrics are best when cut following the napped layout, and most can be cut folded in two layers. A rotary cutter and mat can be helpful, especially for the more textured linens. When marking notches clips may be used. However, avoid them in very course or loosely woven linen fabric. Avoid using wax based markers. A tailors tack really does not take much effort and is generally more accurate.
Basic Sewing
Most linen fabrics can be sewn with any good quality thread, either cotton wrapped or 100% polyester. Use a Universal needle suitable to the weight of your fabric. Generally 8-12 stitches per inch will be best. A test seam is recommended. It is much easier to make a change in thread or needle prior to actually sewing on your project. Being a natural fiber, linen does not dull needles as quickly as synthetic fabrics. However, you should still consider starting with a new needle. Modern home sewing machines tend to be hard on needles and a needle that is even slightly damaged will affect stitch quality. Serged seams may be suitable. Test to make sure.
Seam Finishes
Linen fabrics tend to ravel easily. Therefore, seams should be finished to prevent the garment from raveling apart.
Serging edges prior to constructing with traditional 5/8" seam allowance may help avoid ridges showing on the right side. Press seam over a half round wooden seam stick, sleeve roll, or pressing ham and press from the wrong side.
Other suitable finishes include hand-overcast, zigzag, simple seam binding and Hong Kong bound edges. As a rule avoid bulk whenever possible.
Interfacing
Interfacing should be matched to the weave, texture and weight of your linen fabrics. Pre-test several options if in doubt. Either woven or non-woven interfacing can be used depending on the project and personal preference.
Iron-on
Iron-on interfacing may be suitable especially if the application is a simple straight forward one such as providing support to the facings. Underlining or backing the main pattern pieces with fusible knitted interfacing can add crispness and support to the garment and help prevent wrinkling. Either woven or non-woven interfacing can be used depending on the project and personal preference.
Sew-in
Sew-in interfacing should be considered for tailored projects, although there are a number of very good knit fusible interfacings on the market which work nicely. In addition to commercial interfacings consider organza organdy, chiffon, and voile in either silk or polyester. In some cases cotton broadcloth will be suitable. Even cotton flannel (washed at least twice) can be used to interface/underline very heavy linen.
Another factor that can influence the choice of interfacing as well as seam finishes, button holes, etc. is the intended use of the garment. A trendy project intended to be worn for only one season might be completed more quickly using iron-on interfacing. A very detailed garment or one intended for long term use and laundering might require a more time consuming treatment.