Slinky Fabric • Discount Fabric • Sewing Slinky
SEW ANY FABRIC by Claire Shaeffer
Sewing with Slinky Fabric
Slinky is an elastic acetate knit. Available in different quantities, weights, and stretch, it is sometimes combined with spandex to eliminate bagging. It is comfortable to wear, has a soft, supple hand, and drapes attractively.
Fabric Prep:
Preshrink to relax fabric. Machine wash/dry.
Layout/Cutting/Marking:
Before cutting, compare the amount of fabric stretch with the amount required for the design. Mark the right side of the fabric with small safety pins. Slinky stretches in the length more than most knits; do not allow it to hang off the table when cutting. Anchor with weights; cut using a rotary cutter and mat. If necessary, lay out on tissue paper, pin, and cut through all layers.
Stitching:
To reduce creeping underlayer, use light pressure or serge using differential feed. To baste, use flower pins or quilitng clothes pins. To begin, stitch onto a piece of stabilizer, then onto the fabric. Stitch with an embroidery foot to reduce stretching. If the fabric does not feed well, stop regularly; raise the foot and smooth the fabric, then continue.
Seams:
Use polyester thread and zigzag for more elastic seams. Stitch long, straight seams with a long zigzag (W,.5-L, 2-2.5); stitch short seams, which will be stressed, with a short zigzag (W,.5-L,1.5). To handle easily, cut and stitch seams with 5/8" seam allowances; then serge and trim to 1/4". Stitch with the slinky on the bottom when joining to a stable fabric. Stabilize shoulder seams, necklines, and long side seams when needed with clear elastic.
Edge Finishes:
Self-fabric bindings, stretch foldover braid, and ribbings are
attractive edge finishes. Cut the ribbing and binding strips
on the crossgrain 25 to 30 percent shorter than the edge.
To
apply slinky ribbing, join the ends of the strip; then fold it
in half lengthwise with wrong sides together. Mark the ribbing
and garment edge in quarters and stretch the ribbing to fit.
Stitch to the right side; serge the edges.
To apply a binding,
join the ends. With right sides together, stitch one edge of
the binding to the edge, stretching as needed. Wrap the ribbing
around the edge, and ditch-stitch, using a zipper foot.
For elasticized
waists, choose a firm, non-roll elastic to support the weight
of the fabric.
Closure:
Most closures will interfere with the garment drape. When using a zipper, choose a lightweight invisible zipper. Machine stitch buttonholes parallel to the ribbing.
Hems:
When marking hems, mark 10" above finished hemline. Lay flat; connect the marks; measure and mark at hemline. Fold hem to the wrong side and topstitch with a twin needle (HS) and textured thread in the bobbin. Loosen the needle and bobbin tensions. Trim away excess.
Uses:
Dresses, pants, skirts, blouses.
Design Elements:
Minimal seaming, slip-on designs, loose-fitting sleeves, elastic casings, turtleneck collars, bindings, ribbings. Avoid close fitting garments.